Posted on 03 October 2014.
Outside the plastic tarp, the early autumn breeze sweeps over the farm, but inside, the air is warm and still. Sweat drips down my back and condenses in little drops on my lips and the back of my arms. It’s Friday afternoon, and I have found myself meandering through neat rows of tomatoes that creep upwards on their stalks, taller than I can reach. We twist them off the vines, and Bumblebees, Cherries, and mottled Tiger varieties soon fill teal pint-sized containers. When I sneak a bite of one, the skin gives way to intoxicating sweetness. In fewer than twenty hours, these tomatoes—along with bunches of kale and chard, three types of eggplant, hot and sweet peppers, green beans, and potatoes—will be on sale at the Wooster Square Farmers’ Market on Saturday morning for anyone who stops by the Yale Farm’s booth.
In the shade of the wood-and-brick pavilion that overlooks the farm, Emmett Hedin, PC ’17, a farm manager, rubs dirt-streaked hands over his knees. “There’s nothing like picking something out of the ground that you can sell the next day,” he said, smiling. “To pick the produce, to bring it to the market, to sell it to the consumers…” He pauses. “It’s a way to interact with the New Haven community. The point of the farm is to teach students about sustainability and agriculture, but we’ve created this produce. We’re not going to let it go to waste.”
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The next morning, under overcast skies, farmers’ market devotees flood the Yale Farm’s booth. Justin Wang, MC ’17, the student farm manager on duty that day, and Brendan Bashin-Sullivan, PC ’15, the YSFP market manager, man the table. They had met early that morning at the farm to harvest herbs and flowers to add to the day’s produce. By 7:45 a.m., they loaded the truck for the market, and the stand was up and running by 9:00 a.m.
“We were one of the first vendors at what’s now one of the most successful and biggest markets in Connecticut,” said Jacqueline Lewin, Programs Manager for the Yale Sustainable Food Project (YSFP). A group of students started the YSFP in 2003 to promote sustainable food and agriculture; in addition to expanding the sustainable food offerings in Yale dining halls and growing food-related education offerings, the YSFP founded the Yale Farm. At the same time, Jennifer McTiernan, CC ’99, JD ’15, was toying with the idea of beginning a farmers’ market. “Jennifer was starting a farmers’ market in the city at the same time as the Yale Farm was getting going, and [she] was looking for vendors,” Lewin said. The farm now sells its produce at the market from start of May until the end of the year.
“The funding we get from market is really helpful and awesome, but that’s not the driving reason that we go,” Lewin said. “It’s more of the community connection. Going to market is a complete breakdown of the Yale bubble. Suddenly, you’re a vendor, and you’re a part of the scene of a really robust New Haven market.”
Before joining Wang and Bashin-Sullivan behind the table, in the spirit of supporting the market I picked up a cup of locally roasted coffee and a banana-nutella hand pie from two other stands. As the next two hours pass, scores of New Haven residents stop by. I note, with pride, that many of the tomatoes I harvested go quickly; I watch a woman inquire about pesticides used at the farm (answer: none) before loading the rest of our green beans into her bag.
The last customer of the day is a woman, child-in-tow, who approaches the table and considers the three different varieties of eggplant. “I need four dollars worth,” she tells Wang, who nods and dutifully weighs a couple on a small metal scale. “This should do it,” he says, placing the eggplants into a bag and handing them to her. In return, she gives Wang four red wooden coins, and moves on to the next stand.
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These red coins are the farmers’ market iteration of the Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP), more commonly known as food stamps. CitySeed, the organization that runs the Wooster Square market, as well as four other markets in the city, is responsible for these coins. Nicole Berube, Executive Director of CitySeed, explained to me in an email that the Wooster Square market accepted federal benefit program assistance from its inception and, in doing so, became the first farmers’ market in Connecticut to use the wireless system that allows for the seamless transaction from benefits into coins. In conjunction with a program that doubles the value of SNAP when used for the purchase of fresh fruits and vegetables, the initiative has dramatically increased the number of low-income consumers at the markets. According to Berube, in 2005 consumers redeemed about 600 dollars at the market; she expects that 2014 will yield 12,000 dollars of SNAP purchases.
Margaret Shultz, ES ’16, is a farm manager who worked at YSFP and the market over the summer. While she said that SNAP holds immense potential, Shultz questioned the efficacy of the program. “[SNAP] is a really good way to give people access to fruits and vegetables,” Shultz said. “It’s not perfect though. It’s not a final solution.” In large part, Shultz said she questions the plausibility of those who would take advantage of the SNAP program having the luxury of time to travel to the market and then cook and prepare the fresh ingredients. Hedin, the farm manager, shared her reservations. “The general demographic of people with SNAP benefits aren’t people paying four dollars for cilantro, even with the double value program,” he said.
Back under the pavilion, Lewin and I chopped shallots and peppers that hadn’t been purchased at that weekend’s market. From our perch, we had a clear view over the farm. The tarp was gone; a rectangle of bare earth lay where it had stood. As we pushed the last scraps of vegetables into a compost bin, Lewin said that while she realizes that there are limitations to the SNAP effort at the market, she lauds CitySeed’s efforts to bring the farm’s produce to more Connecticut residents. “We know that mothers and fathers want to feed their children well, and will do so if they have the means. Well, hey,” Lewin said. “Here are the means.”
–Graphic by Alex Swanson