Far from the comforts of campus, in a place where the most eccentric of Eugene residents humbly abide sits Wandering Goat Coffee Co., a coffee shop and roasting company with just as much personality and beards as you’d expect in the offbeat Whiteaker neighborhood cafe.
Inside, death metal is playing. The place is dimly lit, crooked, and framed pen illustrations line the worn walls. I take my place in line. Something about the mixture of the music and the long black ponytail and beard-sporting cashier takes me back to a late night Adult Swim “Metalocalypse” episode. The song ends and a soft Grizzly Bear tune begins. Ordering coffee becomes significantly less intimidating.
The crowd is typical of the area — dreadlocks, hiking boots and perfectly straight baby bangs. When did my clothes get so dull? It’s my turn to order, and the ponytail dude behind the counter ends up being a pretty nice guy. The eyeliner-ed, fringe cut barista behind him, however, appears less so: “Pour-over! Who had the pour-over? POUR-OVER! Ugh.” Your swirly designs may be the talk of the town, ma’am, but it’s what’s inside your heart that truly counts.
I order a 16-ounce drip coffee — “brewed fresh every 20 minutes!” — a small hot Chai, house made and reputably strong, and a shot of espresso on the side. I open my mouth to order one of their large cased pastries, but at the word “vegan” close it. I trust that the “cheeze bagels” are good. They sure look it, but I decide to save my appetite for something butter-filled later on.
I take a seat at a table next to what appears to be your typical Oregon Duck pullover-bearing dad with New Balance sneakers. But with a closer look, I see that his reading glasses hang around his neck by a rasta-colored rope. I wonder what kind of summer camp his daughter made that for him at.
“Coffee! Espresso shot! Chai!” The loud, peeved and familiar voice lets me know that my order is ready.
At the cream bar, my hand momentarily hovers over the “hemp milk” but reaches for the half and half instead. I fill my espresso and coffee to the top and take a seat to enjoy. The shot of espresso, cooled significantly by the chilled cream, goes down easily. Probably the best acidic mud I’ve ever tasted, and I mean that in the best way possible. I cozy the coffee, nutty and smooth. Through a window, you can see the shop’s roasting machinery in a room in the back. Eat your heart out, Starbucks, for it doesn’t get much fresher than this.
The chai comes last. The first sip largely consists of milk foam and too much cinnamon, which formed a leafy design on top. It makes me cough a little. About three sips in, the liquid goodness begins making its way down and warms my tummy. It’d likely be soul-soothing, had I not previously filled said soul with too much caffeine. The spices, innumerable and kept secret, sting my sore throat, but do indeed clear my stuffy sinuses. Eat your heart out, Starbucks, and your syrupy sweet chai concentrates, too.
I enjoy the cafe for an extended period of time. The eclectic crowd and interesting music playlist leaves me content and comfortable. Death metal tunes come and go but are mixed with songs by a large array of artists like Fleetwood Mac, Coldplay and Fleet Foxes. Outside, a Santa Clause is bumming cigarettes. It doesn’t get much more Eugene than this. I like it. I like the Wandering Goat Coffee Co.
Five out of five swirly, milk-frothed stars for some of the most worthwhile caffeine jitters I’ve ever had.
Check it out for yourself at 268 Madison St., off of Sixth Avenue.
Follow Jessica on Twitter- @PAJARTIAZ.